Letting
go of youth means letting go of heavy eyeliner,
vibrant colours and those sticky wands of lip gloss.
It’s time to become a little more savvy in
your product placement.
“Your makeup routine should
evolve,” says Derek Selby, director of education
for Schwarzkopf Professional and a regular on CityLine.
“As a general rule, I suggest that mature
women follow a neutral base and play up one area
– either eyes or lips. If your eyelids tend
to show more signs of aging, keep the eyes neutral
and then play up the lips with a little colour.”
FIRST
BASE
“Most women wear too much
foundation,” says Selby. “You just
want to even out your skin tone.” Target
only your uneven areas, such as the forehead,
nose and cheeks. “Then, blend outward, so
there’s less product around the outside
of your face.”
Product is as important as application:
if you’ve been using the same shade of foundation
for the past 10 years, you’re probably using
the wrong one. “As we get older we lose
colour in our skin,” he explains. “Your
foundation should change accordingly.”
Avoid matte powders, which accentuate
fine lines. “A liquid foundation will keep
skin looking more youthful. Try Lancôme
Rénergie Lift Makeup or Smashbox Conversion
Cream to Powder Foundation. To conceal blemishes
and age spots, try Clinique Superbalanced Compact
Makeup SPF 20 or Estée Lauder Ideal Brush-On
Illuminator.
EYE
APPEAL
“When you are 50 or 60,
stick with colours that exist in nature –
taupes, beiges and browns,” advises Selby.
“You can add a little shimmer, but don’t
overdo it. Keep colour right on the eyelid, so
you get just a little flash of colour when you
blink.”
The same rule applies to eyeliner.
Steer clear of Twiggy-inspired heavy liner and
harsh blacks, which will make your eyes look smaller.
Try charcoal grey or brown. For a softer look,
use powder along the lashes, instead of liner.
“Make the line a little thicker in the outer
corner – it will give the illusion of a
wider-open eye,” says Selby.
Finally, curl lashes and apply
black or black/brown mascara to the root of the
lash. “Jiggle the wand back and forth and
then brush it through. If you deposit most of
the product at the base, it won’t clump
at the ends.” Try a curling mascara, such
as L’Oréal Le Grand Curl. “Curling
mascaras contain polymers that tense or shrink
as they dry, so they bend the lash upward,”
he says. If you have thin lashes, opt for a lengthening
mascara, such as Christian Dior Long’Optic.
“Or, consider having your eyelashes tinted.
It’s a great tip for blonds because you
can never get the mascara right to the root,”
he says.
LIP
SERVICE
Bright lip colours are perfect
for the mature woman.“Red always looks great
on the lips for the holidays. Sheer lipsticks
in plum, rose or brownish colours always work,
too.” If you have thin lips, use lighter,
glossier shades to make the lips appear bigger.
Avoid lipsticks that are too matte – they'll
accentuate fine lines – or too glossy, which
can bleed off the lip line. “Try creamy
lipsticks – they look moist but won’t
bleed as easily.” To define your lip line,
use a liner in a similar shade to your lip colour.
HIGH
BROW
For an instant eye lift, define
the brow, says Selby. “Follow your natural
hairs but accentuate them slightly above the arch.
Try a grey or brown powder with a stiff brush
rather than a pencil, because it creates a softer
look.”
GET
CHEEKY
Apply your blush slightly above
the cheekbone, for a lifting effect. “The
trick is to make sure the formula is sheer, so
the skin almost glows,” says Selby. Rose,
plum, pink or peach shades work best.
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